During our month long stay in Oaxaca the quality, variety and uniqueness of of the types of food and drink in the region surpassed our already lofty expectations.
We stayed in a Booking.com apartment in the Centro neighbourhood followed by a treat upgraded couple of nights at Suites de la Parra. The real draw for us was the rooftop pool complete with sun loungers, but the rooms themselves are spacious and nice, too. The location was right next to the Mercado and in the heart of the city.
As you make your way through the streets and markets of Oaxaca city you will find locals producing and selling traditional drinks dating back centuries, and likely millennia. All these drinks are made with native ingredients such as corn, cacao, or agave. Here’s a selection of the best traditional drinks in Oaxaca.
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Chocolate de Agua
You will find chocolate in many forms throughout Oaxaca, and that has been the case since pre-hispanic times. Nowadays you’ll find chocolate shops everywhere. You’ll find mole on every menu. And every self respecting Oaxaca cafe will serve Chocolate de Agua. Traditionally served cold, Chocolate de Agua is exactly what you think. A cold refreshing delicious glass of chocolate and water (you can also order with milk but this is not the traditional way). Head to Mercado 20 de Noviembre to find vendors inside or the chocolate makers La Soledad or Mayordomo outside on the south side.
Tejate
Tejate is arguably one of the most famous non-alcoholic traditional drinks of Oaxaca. It is a delicious mix of freshly ground corn and cacao, which is then mixed in a bowl with water and ice and served fresh and cold. It’s a frothy, refreshing, and highly nutritious drink with pre-hispanic origins. You’ll find this drink throughout Oaxaca, usually produced and served by an abuelita either street-side or within markets such as the Mercado Benito Juárez in the centre of the city. Normally I prefer my drinks without added sugar when offered but Tejate definitely benefits from a touch.
Atole and Champurrado
Atole is a drink found throughout Mexico and indeed other countries in Central America. Champurrado is the Oaxacan name for the version of the drink containing cacao. They are drinks so old that again their exact origin is unknown. The drinks are made with masa and are often flavoured with spices. Served hot they could be described as a smoother and more liquidy version of porridge.
Like most locals, we had ours for breakfast. Itanoni in the Reforma neighbourhood of Oaxaca is a restaurant dedicated to the multiple heirloom varieties of corn in Oaxaca. It’s also a great spot to try the many corn-based foods of the region such as memeles and tetelas.
Pozontle
Pozontle is a delicious traditional drink from the Sierra Norte region of Oaxaca. It is shockingly hard to find in Oaxaca city but we found some at the aptly named La Pozontlería stall in the Mercado Orgánico La Cosecha.
It is prepared to order from a base of cacao, masa, panela, and also the very unique cocolmeca root. Served in a traditional wooden jicara it is a delicious frothy blend of goodness that we highly recommend seeking out.
Tepache
Tepache is another delicious traditional drink found in Oaxaca, and finally the first on this list without corn or cacao as a base! The drink is made from the fermented fruit and rinds of pineapple, combined with panela. Thanks to the fermentation it has a little effervescence and of course, a little alcohol.
You can find Tepache all over the streets and markets of Oaxaca, including another excellent version within the Mercado Orgánico La Cosecha.
Mezcal
No list of the best drinks in Oaxaca would be complete without a mention of Mezcal! Found in literally every bar in the city, Mezcal is the world-reknowned spirit made from the agave plant and indeed 90% of the production is from Oaxaca. Much like grapes and wine, there are lots of different types of agave and lots of different expressions of mezcal.
In Oaxaca city you can head to many mezcalerias to try the different varieties. Our favourite spot for this was In Situ which has a library-like list of mezcals and incredibly knowledgable team who can tell you all about the agave varieties, production methods, and the farms and farmers who grow the agave and make the mezcal. If you have the time to head out of the city you can visit production sites themselves. We visited Don Agave, conveniently located just outside of the city, for a free tour and tasting.
Mexican Lager
We would never dream of ordering it back home. Maybe that makes us snobs. But there’s something special about cracking open an ice cold (and yes as you can see below, many are literally served ice cold) Corona, Modelo, or Pacifico lager on a scorching hot day after walking the streets of Oaxaca.
For the full cultural immersion head to one of the Oaxaca’s local bars, order a Caguama (large sharing size bottles), and enjoy the free snacks of peanuts and citrus fruit that come with every order.
